In mid-September, the vibrant city of Milan becomes a melting pot of creativity as fashionistas, designers and industry leaders gather for Milan Fashion Week.
Among the highlights of this prestigious event was Lineapelle, the world’s largest exhibition dedicated to leather and leather goods.
With more than 1,000 exhibitors from 112 countries and more than 114,000 local Italian visitors alongside 10,000 international guests, Lineapelle served as a creative haven connecting the fashion, accessories and lifestyle industries.
At the heart of the exhibition this year were a masterclass conducted by Barbara Ricci of the famous Giorgio Linea brand.
Giorgio Linea, based in Florence, has been a major player in the production of high-quality leather fashion accessories for over four decades.
Ms. Ritchie’s classes focused on customizing leather accessories, offering an insight into the art behind luxury fashion.
“Luxury means being special and unique,” Ritchie said, stressing the importance of craftsmanship over mass production.
Her company collaborates with top brands like Celine and Burberry, guiding them through the complex process of prototyping until the final product is ready for the market.
The finest leather
Ms Ritchie said the finest leather comes from lambskin, known for its softness, while calfskin provides durability after chrome tanning, a quick chemical process.
However, she supports traditional vegetable tanning methods, which use natural tannins to transform hides into hides, promoting sustainability.
Barbara Ricci of Giorgio Linea at the Lineapelle gallery in Milan conducts her master classes in leather.
Image credit: Swimming pool
“Since leather is a by-product, using its waste promotes environmental responsibility,” she said.
Despite the rich tradition of leathermaking, the industry faces a pressing challenge: the dwindling number of skilled craftsmen. As younger generations gravitate towards other fields, the loss of experience poses a threat to this ancient craft. This problem is further exacerbated by the fact that many brands exploit labor by offering low wages, deterring potential artisans from pursuing careers in leather production.
Another challenge is the influx of mass-produced fake leather and products.
“The market is shrinking due to the influx of mass-produced hides from countries like China,” she said.
Brands often mislead consumers by labeling products as “Made in Italy,” even when they are manufactured elsewhere. However, there are still customers who appreciate authentic craftsmanship, and want to invest in one-of-a-kind pieces of art.
The sustainability narrative extended beyond Giorgio Linea at the Lineapelle exhibition, with notable participation from Dani, a pioneering sustainable leather company founded in 1950. Dani has been at the forefront of environmentally friendly practices. They trace each rawhide back to its source, ensuring ethical practices in animal welfare.
Chairman of the Board Giancarlo Dani believes in a multifaceted approach to sustainability, including environmental and social aspects.
“Paying workers well and providing good working conditions is crucial,” he said.
President of Sustainable Leather Company Dani, Mr. Giancarlo Dani.
Image credit: Swimming pool
One of the growing markets for high-quality leather is the automotive industry. Niccolò Cinquetti, Dani’s Business Development Manager, emphasizes the technical requirements of automotive leather – durability, comfort and abrasion resistance are crucial. Dani uses artificial intelligence to streamline production processes and enhance quality control, ensuring that its leathers meet the exacting standards of car manufacturers.
In a global market often overshadowed by mass production, artisans and companies committed to preserving traditional techniques and ethical practices stand out as beacons of innovation and responsibility, inviting a new generation to appreciate the artistry behind every piece of leather.
Take, for example, the belt that singer Madonna wore during the 2012 Superbowl Halftime Show in Indianapolis. It was designed by Giorgio Linea, and they were given just 12 hours to produce it. “This is what luxury is all about, the story and craftsmanship behind the product,” says Ms. Ritchie.