Notre Dame Cathedral’s reopening spectacle capped a stellar year for luxury house LVMH

Article content

PARIS (AP) — The reopening of Notre Dame was an official celebration of cultural and spiritual renewal. However, to some, the revival of the historic cathedral also felt like a meticulously choreographed branding event from LVMH and other luxury conglomerates.

Article content

Article content

Bernard Arnault, the lowly billionaire behind luxury conglomerate LVMH and a major benefactor of Notre Dame Cathedral who regularly tops the list of the world’s richest men, was at the heart of the celebration. He was surrounded by his family, the French president, the archbishop, the clergy, and visible symbols of his luxury empire’s influence, including its brands Louis Vuitton and Dior.

Article content

First Lady Brigitte Macron carried an eye-catching Lady Dior handbag. Louis Vuitton Artistic Director Pharrell Williams performed a collection of clothes at Louis Vuitton. South African soprano Pretty Yende also contributed a performance of “Amazing Grace” while wearing a Dior dress adorned with 110 carats of diamonds.

Welcome to the “Opening of the LVMH Arena”, commented TV journalist Jan Bart about this week’s cathedral ceremony.

LVMH has enjoyed unprecedented visibility in France in 2024, particularly as a high-profile sponsor of the 2024 Paris Olympics.

Some questioned the taste of such a prominent brand taking place in a sacred place such as the beloved Gothic monument, while pointing to LVMH’s crucial contribution to the reconstruction.

“You can’t blame Mr. Arnault, a businessman, for doing business. But people are now asking if this is an appropriate venue for a show like this,” said Theo Fontaine, a fashion public relations consultant.

“It’s been a great PR year for LVMH_that’s for sure,” Fontaine added. “The Olympics and now Notre Dame. The whole world was watching.”

Article content

Article content

Close to Arnault sat Kering representatives, adding another layer to the ongoing rivalry between France’s two largest luxury groups.

Kering CEO François-Henri Pinault attended alongside his wife, actress Salma Hayek, who wore a designer coat from Gucci. Gucci is owned by Kering.

The event, the culmination of an €840 million restoration effort following a devastating 2019 fire, brought together global dignitaries and cultural icons.

The restoration of Notre Dame Cathedral united France’s corporate giants. Arnault’s donation of €200 million was the largest, followed by contributions of €100 million from Pinault and the Bettencourt-Myers family of L’Oréal. More than 250 companies and 2,000 craftsmen contributed to the five-year restoration effort, which rebuilt the tower, repaired the vaulted ceilings, and restored the stained glass windows.

As the bells of Notre Dame rang out across Paris, the cathedral’s rebirth served as a testament to collective effort — but also for some as a symbol of how France’s seats of power and its precious luxury industry are inextricably intertwined.

Article content

French President Emmanuel Macron and Brigitte Macron welcomed heads of state, including President-elect Donald Trump, Britain’s Prince William and Elon Musk, at a ceremony steeped in tradition and high fashion.

Arnault attended with his family, including Dior Chairman and CEO Delphine Arnault, LVMH Image and Environment Director Antoine Arnault, Moët Hennessy Executive Vice President Alexandre Arnault, LVMH Watch CEO Frederic Arnault, and Louis Vuitton Watch Product and Development Director Jean Arno. Antoine Arnault’s wife, model Natalia Vodianova, was also present.

“I am proud of the outpouring of generosity from around the world, to which the LVMH Group and my family wanted to contribute from the beginning, making it possible to restore this jewel of our heritage,” Antoine Arnault said in a statement. Posted on LinkedIn.

He added: “This exceptional project has highlighted the excellence of French knowledge and the talent of nearly 2,000 architects, workers and craftsmen from all professions.”

However, public reaction was mixed

Babona Belishvili, 24, who watched the ceremony in Paris, joked: “If the devil wears Prada, the cathedral wears Louis Vuitton and Dior.”

Article content

“This is the most PR the Catholic Church has seen in centuries,” said Carrie Lefebvre, 27.

Marie-Claire Dubois, a 45-year-old Catholic worshiper from Paris, expressed her disagreement. “This is a sacred place. It is nice that these companies are contributing, but the brand should have remained outside,” she added. “Notre Dame deserves respect as a house of God, not a luxury showcase.”

While the grandeur of the reopening has sparked controversy, Arnault’s donations and LVMH’s contributions to the cathedral’s restoration – including 36 300-year-old oaks for the tower – have received widespread praise.

LVMH’s influence at the 2024 Paris Olympics has cemented its star year. The company manufactured custom display cases for the 5,000 medals and the Olympic torch, highlighting their artistry and precision. Berluti, another LVMH brand, designed costumes for the opening ceremony, while Vogue World’s Olympic-themed fashion show, supported by the group, attracted international attention during Paris Haute Couture Week.

The tensions between Arnault and Pinault, the driving forces behind LVMH and Kering respectively, were on full display with the prominent appearance of their brands in the cathedral. This rivalry dates back decades, to a bitter bidding war for Gucci in the late 1990s, which Beano Kering eventually won. Since then, their competition has expanded beyond fashion into the realms of art, philanthropy and global influence.

At Notre Dame, the French Catholic Church also championed French luxury, and was even on display in the sewing of liturgical vestments. French fashion designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac was called upon by the church to design the cathedral’s 2,000-piece garments. The unconventional designs were fun, modern — and perhaps shockingly simple. They made sure that even the clergy’s robes reflected the art of high fashion, further emphasizing the intersection of faith and fashion at the event.

Article content